The Pocket Square

Taken from Rampley and Co:

Some people believe that the pocket square in one form or another can trace its origins back to ancient Egypt, where small linen cloths were dyed with a red powder that indicated they were used for decorative purposes and as an example of wealth. However, this is quite a leap of faith and small pieces of colored cloth don’t necessarily translate directly into what you would consider a modern-day pocket square.

Some trace it back to the Ancient Greeks who carried a cloth with scented perfume to ensure they always had a pleasant smell nearby or the Romans who used pieces of cloth to start the Gladiatorial Games, with the event starting when the Emperor dropped his handkerchief.

Some claim the first use of a handkerchief being worn as an accessory was in the 800’s when members of the Catholic Church would attach a white handkerchief to their left arm as a representation of their devotion to God and the church.

Finally, a popular theory often espoused is that King Richard II of England was the first person to wear a handkerchief as a fashion accessory while on the throne between 1377 to 1399.

So although it’s clear people have been using squares of material for various uses for hundreds if not thousands of years, it's our opinion that although romantic, many of these explanations don't provide a clear connection between what we now see as the modern-day pocket square, and that is true its history can be traced back around 600 years.

Becoming A Fashion Accessory

From the 1400s, the handkerchief started to become popular throughout Europe with the upper classes as either an accessory or a more practical tool. By this point, pocket squares or pocket handkerchiefs were made from more exotic materials including silk and were embroidered to create beautiful patterns as yet another demonstration of wealth and status. To this point, they still came in many shapes and sizes, and like the Ancient Greeks, the French nobles scented their handkerchiefs to overcome the odors of the time resulting from a general lack of bathing facilities.  

The best embroidery and lace designs in the 16th Century were being produced in Italy and it is thought they were then imported by Catherine de Medici of Florence into France. These handkerchiefs were considered extremely valuable and were often passed down from generation to generation. The value was often created by the quality and design of the lace being used. The Tudor Monarchs continued this exclusive trend with both Queen Mary and Queen Elizabeth receiving handkerchiefs as presents at New Year's and it then started to become prevalent to gift royalty handkerchiefs.

A popular story has it that Marie Antoinette decided that it wasn’t right to have handkerchiefs of all different sizes and so got her husband King Louis XVI to decree that from that point all cloth should be a uniform size of 16” by 16”. This can in part account for the shape and size that we tend to see today. 

The Introduction Of The 2 Piece Suit

In the 19th century when the 2 piece suit became the mainstay of gentlemen’s fashion, it occurred to well-dressed men that they didn’t want their pristine handkerchiefs mixing with the coins and other dirty objects carried in their pockets and hence transferred it to their top left breast pocket.

This style continued to become more popular into the early 20th century as different folding techniques became prevalent, and the pocket square had now established itself as a key fashion accessory for the gentleman who would take pride in his appearance with squares made of silk, cotton or linen, either patterned or plain becoming very popular with the well-dressed gents across Europe and the United States.

As the 20th century went on, linen handkerchiefs started to become less and less popular as functional items and this was furthered by the introduction of the cheaper and easier disposable handkerchief by the Kleenex company. In the run-up to the middle of the century, there was a further shift as stars such as James Cagney and Fred Astaire once again helped to popularise the pocket square as a fashion accessory, and everyone from the best-dressed gent to the average office worker could be seen wearing one.

As the 20th century wore on, pocket squares once again lost their luster, partly due to the casualization of work wear. By the end of the century, they were once again almost exclusively limited to dandies.

Modern Times

Since the turn of the Millennium, pocket squares have enjoyed a renaissance in popularity and become an essential part of the outfits of high-profile celebrities and fashionistas alike. As the working environment has become more casual, ties have been lost and ill-fitting suits have become the norm. The pocket square provides a touch of elegance and style for the man who wants to stand out from the crowd.

I happen to love them! They make the man's suit look smart and polished, and adds color. I can see women wearing a pocket square with her power suit, why not? It's 2024, anything goes.